Busy Busy Busy Bee

So.....where tae being.....? I've managed, with a hangover (not recomended) tae finish the STS. I've then managed, sober, tae get all my climbing and skiing gear up tae my new hoose in Aviemore.

So jobs, digs the dam car oot, and get it tae the garage, unpack my gear and sort in tae normal manic manner! But with no car, training for the world cup has resorted tae walking tae tesco's and filling a bag full of heavy food item's, and playing in the snow with the lass.

Tomorrow, up on the hill for a ski tour as climbing in well and truly oot.

Sweaty Betty!

So I've been in Edinburgh noo for aboot couple of weeks, and already I feel fat and useless! So a sesh at Alien Rock 1 was spontaneously plan this morning for after work.

So Martin and myself physic oor self's up, and talked aboot the 'pump' that oor untrained, frail bodies were going tae have tae take.

Alien Rock isn't a bad venue, I thought that grades were a wee bit soft, but the biggest problem was the heat! Never in my nelly puff have I climbed in such heat. I wasn't getting that pumped, it was more the slippy sliding of my hands.

We endured aboot 2 hoors of the heat before heiding hame for some scran and a pint.

I'm looking forward tae Extreme Dream opening for the winter! Let the training being!!!!! I'll be back up in the 'More' at the end of October.

Climb safe!

Fun Weekend

On Tuesday my good friend Chris Gingles (that's his real last name!) finished his Doctor exams, therefore, no more studying!
So this weekend we were going tae have some fun. On Saturday Chris, his wife Racheal (The Gingles) and I went tae Rothiemuchus tae the clay pigeon shooting range. Dispite not holding a gun since I as 17, I think I held my own! Competition was hot as it was doon tae the last few clay tae decide the winner....turned oot it was Chris by two clays! Good job Gingles.

After 50 rounds we went tae the mountain cafe tae plan oor climbing day on Sunday. It was decided (as Chris and Racheal were both novices) tae climb fingers ridge and descend Ficael ridge.

After a large coffee and a brownie I was buzzing. For someone who doesn't drink caffeine, and doesn't process sugar well, you could say that both of my eye's were twitching!

We then decided tae bike up High Burnside (the woods at the back of Aviemore) tae burn off, what I can only imagine the same as a very large hit of smack!

It did the trick, I went home after and crashed.

Sunday, Fingers ridge was taken! Bugger....The Genie? VS? not Diff, I'm sure they will be fine...will I leading in trainers, no chalk, and with Chris that learned how tae belay 60 seconds before the route? Oh well, lets see!

The climb went well, all three were cursing until I got tae the hard pitch, and it started tae rain, shit. No prizes for air miles as most might know from me, and with that, and all my 'aid climbing isn't climbing' rants, it made sense then. Lots of sense!

We all topped oot not long after and was sitting on top in the sun with sandwiches and smiles all round. It was then time tae retire for a well earned burger and a dram!

Fun weekend? one of the best! Photo's will follow at later date.

Where's my mojo?!

Don't worry I'm not dead. I've been shite with my blog but that's it. I have seemed tae have slipped into a funk, with training anyway. I just can't seemed tae get motivated tae train. Not indoors anyway. I've been going tae the gym tae keep my fitness up, but I feel like I'm missing something with it, well I know what it is, it's the feeling of movement on the rock.

Since my last post, I've done other things with my life than climbing, my relationships have changed, I've sold my van and replaced it with a motorbike, and moved house twice. Slight mid life crisis? Maybe?

Does this shitty weather help? No? Is that a good excuse? No, not really? But I'll use it all the same! People tae get motivated with? Now that would make a big difference. It's funny, certain times of the year or places you go, you either have not enough people tae climb with or too many, or not enough money tae get aroond and the weather is shit.

I know one thing that has put a stop tae blogging, even if it useless crap that even the unemployed wont want tae read, is that I lost my bloody camera months ago, and I've never got roond tae replacing.

The mission is on! The right cheap camera will be found. Training will resume, the weather will change, but that winter coming through. The motorbike will be locked away and a small cheap car will be bought (much saving is needed). I'm moving again, now tae the birth place, the home in my heart, Edinburgh! Where the wine flows like beer, and the snow falls like rain! I will return tae Aviemore, just in time for the next big winter, I feel it in my waters, this one is going tae be a beast.

For yous that read this, and keep checking my blog, thanks and I will not let you down! Pictures and funny story's are on the horizon!

Till next time, happy climbing, and be safe.

Weem

Will this weather ever let up!!!!!!!!! Seems not unless you drive doon tae Weem rock (just south of Pitlochry) I was there with a lad from 'Nightwatch' at the lodge. After climbing and trying tae train at the lodge, I thought that there was a good chance for some good ascents. But no, I was climbing like a donkey and as weak as ever. I did think that the route at Weem were harder than the grade giving....or thats my excuse.
However it was a good day on the rock with nice weather, and it didn't take long before we were driving back intae the rain that seems tae be just hanging over Aviemore!
I was going tae jump intea the wall at the lodge tae finsh myself off, but the minute I tried tae climbing on any problem, I couldn't be arsed.
Weem has really kicked my ass, and that can only be a good thing tae get motivated tae climb and train more. When it's not fun, is when it's time tae go hame! (excluding Scottish winter routes!)

Grand Scottish Weather!

So after my problem on the Link boulder, I was looking forward tae some nice cold crisp spring bouldering when I got back from london. Only a came back with shorts, t-shirt, and flip flops on, and drove right intae highland weather, crap highland.

I was planning on bringing you some of Aviemore's best kept and known secerts of bouldering. Some that are right in front of yer face and some aren't so much. But as for the weather it's slightly delayed.

So I'll keep sitting in cafe's and training indoor until my fingers or soul is broken! Waiting with baited breathe for the good weather tae shine through.

Happy training!

Bouldering around Aviemore

So the last couple of weeks I have had a real calling tae go bouldering. So I got the mat oot the garage and went tae the hardware store tae get a new brush.

It wasn't long before I realised that there is enough bouldering around the Aviemore area, and even the odd new line tae be had. There is a lot that hasn't been recorded.

So over the next couple of days I will be bringing you the best bouldering spot from around the area and some new spots that I'm sure no one has taken a pair of shoe's tae.

I have manage to put a new line on the Link boulder near Cairngorm Mountain, it's the sit start to 'Right hand Lip' 6c. The sit start was there for the taken and after a good look through the guide book, it was not part of the problem. I think it's V7ish, It's a solid V6 anyway.

So in the next couple of days, weather permitting, I'll try and get tae ye what I think the best bouldering in Aviemore.