Thursday, 28 January 2010
Saturday, 23 January 2010
Not shaken, but stirred
So things have been not the way I visioned or expected. From being feed for free, to living in a lush apartment, to sitting in a tent with the best competing climbing on the planet, to watch a drunk guide sew a climbers finger back together in a club, to climbing on the roof of the club, to trying to piss in a portaloo with a shit stuck on the seat pan for the Russian who didn't want to sit while going stood up on the side and missed the hole!, to being on the sharp end on the rope climbing in the world cup and not for filling my protential.
I'm writing on a very small laptop, so I'll keep this brief. But the gist is that I warmed up correctly, the nerves where left a the apartment, and I was good to go. The route look hard but straight forward. I tie in and brief look up. Get set on the starting holds. Go. I run up the ice. Easy. Look across the bulge and at the first hook. Figure of 4 - figure of 9- back to figure 4 and up on the hook. Solid. Mantle up and look to the stretch to the big move. Long reach. Nae bother. Thin. Clip. Match. Look to the next hold. Off. Lowered. Ground. Untie. Scratch chin.
Romania is in two weeks.................
I'm writing on a very small laptop, so I'll keep this brief. But the gist is that I warmed up correctly, the nerves where left a the apartment, and I was good to go. The route look hard but straight forward. I tie in and brief look up. Get set on the starting holds. Go. I run up the ice. Easy. Look across the bulge and at the first hook. Figure of 4 - figure of 9- back to figure 4 and up on the hook. Solid. Mantle up and look to the stretch to the big move. Long reach. Nae bother. Thin. Clip. Match. Look to the next hold. Off. Lowered. Ground. Untie. Scratch chin.
Romania is in two weeks.................
Wednesday, 20 January 2010
Touch Down!
Arrived in Geneva yesterday, blues skies, and lots of sun! Sunglasses were purchased! Drove for about a hour to Samoens. A little but awesome place, quiet at the moment as the season has not really kicked off.
Had a little walk, playing in the snow! Beautiful place....might live here one day with the dog and the lass.
Today.....well! Simon and I went ice climbing, huge walk in, maybe about 30 to 40 seconds!!!!!! About a Scottish 4, with an attemped of a 5/6. But with fragile ice, not worth the risk before the comp....thats my excuse anyway!
Had lunch and stole Simon's ski gear to then met Susie up on the hill as it was just starting to snow!!!! (and still is by the way) and have a few runs on some nice big wide stuff (not scotland narrows here).
After a day like that, nothing left to do apart from...go to the pub. Une Guinness pour moi!
Travelling tomorrow to Saas. I only found out where in Switzerland it was! Wish me luck on getting there!
Had a little walk, playing in the snow! Beautiful place....might live here one day with the dog and the lass.
Today.....well! Simon and I went ice climbing, huge walk in, maybe about 30 to 40 seconds!!!!!! About a Scottish 4, with an attemped of a 5/6. But with fragile ice, not worth the risk before the comp....thats my excuse anyway!
Had lunch and stole Simon's ski gear to then met Susie up on the hill as it was just starting to snow!!!! (and still is by the way) and have a few runs on some nice big wide stuff (not scotland narrows here).
After a day like that, nothing left to do apart from...go to the pub. Une Guinness pour moi!
Travelling tomorrow to Saas. I only found out where in Switzerland it was! Wish me luck on getting there!
Monday, 18 January 2010
Nearly ready for the big yin!!!!!
Today was an easier day than i thought. I manage to get to Edinburgh in the van despite it not having an exhaust, a cracked windscreen and a bearing that sounds like it going to pop!
I also got the heelies that Scott gave me fixed to the boots! yippee!!!!!
I'm flying out tomorrow at 08:25 and be in Switzterland for 10:00. I'll try to keep you posted over sea's!
Be Safe.
Sunday, 17 January 2010
Comp Prep
Prep for the competition today would have been much easier if I wasn't nursing a hangover!
I tried to fix the heel piece to my new boots today, and not really going to plan. I drilled the holes in the workshop of Nevisport with Dave and his en genius idea to rivet the heel pieces on....... despite the master plan, it didn't work.
I tried to fix the heel piece to my new boots today, and not really going to plan. I drilled the holes in the workshop of Nevisport with Dave and his en genius idea to rivet the heel pieces on....... despite the master plan, it didn't work.
So Zamberlan are launching the Ice 2000, there new ice climbing boot, and they have very kindly given me a pair for the comp.....but I have just drilled six holes in the arse of them, so you could say I was slightly stressed when we couldn't find any bolts to fix the heelies on. However I will be down in Edinburgh tomorrow and I'm sure it will be sorted then.
Big thanks to Scott Muir for giving me the heelies and all the great advise and 'heads up's'.
I'm sure you can watch the comp live on the Internet, not sure where. Maybe on the UIAA website.
I'm going to go pack, wish me luck and I'll try and keep you posted!
Friday, 15 January 2010
Welcome to the new long reach blog
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