Saturday 23 January 2010

Not shaken, but stirred

So things have been not the way I visioned or expected. From being feed for free, to living in a lush apartment, to sitting in a tent with the best competing climbing on the planet, to watch a drunk guide sew a climbers finger back together in a club, to climbing on the roof of the club, to trying to piss in a portaloo with a shit stuck on the seat pan for the Russian who didn't want to sit while going stood up on the side and missed the hole!, to being on the sharp end on the rope climbing in the world cup and not for filling my protential.

I'm writing on a very small laptop, so I'll keep this brief. But the gist is that I warmed up correctly, the nerves where left a the apartment, and I was good to go. The route look hard but straight forward. I tie in and brief look up. Get set on the starting holds. Go. I run up the ice. Easy. Look across the bulge and at the first hook. Figure of 4 - figure of 9- back to figure 4 and up on the hook. Solid. Mantle up and look to the stretch to the big move. Long reach. Nae bother. Thin. Clip. Match. Look to the next hold. Off. Lowered. Ground. Untie. Scratch chin.

Romania is in two weeks.................

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