Time tae TRAIN!!!!!!!!!

I am noo a man with a car! she's fixed! and so with that, training will start today!! I'm going tae heid tae the lodge later today, gym then wall (with schmoolz) and start the pain. I've not got a lot of time tae get back in tae shape after such a long time oot, but you better believe that I am going tae try.

First comp at the worlds is the 15th of January I think, it's in Italy.

Condition as you might well have guess...snow. Not huge amounts but enough tae make climbing harder work and skiing nae bad. High winds a the tops, so there will be a lot of drifting.

Stay safe.

Gloves and Weather Up-date

So the Black Diamond Guides have been, so far, very good. However the temperature has risen since I bought them. But I can feel the quality tae the usual pish I buy. As for the Specialist's I've not been climbing, so I can't say. My car is ill at the moment as the bearing collapsed and I got two flats! My snow tyres came today so my little beauty should spinning aroond anytime soon.

As for the weather, the wind has picked considerably and the temperature is what you would class as tropical! Jumper weather, hats, gloves and jackets can stay at home! Hopefully this thaw doesn't strip all the snow, cause a good base at this time of year would be brillant. It is due tae get very cold again next week. Climbing should be in good condition.

As the car will be better soon, I can start training for the world cup. Hopefully going tae Italy and Romania. Training at this time of year is hard for me as it's time tae be festive and fat, also my local climbing wall is no longer, so I will have tae train at Glenmore Lodge. This isn't ideal, as Glemore doesn't have a 13 meter roof! In fact there isn't alot at all.

Anyhoo, we will see what happens. Stay safe.

COLD HANDS!!!!

Right. Are you ready? Are you for a rant? Alright, here it's comes!
Gloves. Bloody expensive, ill fitting, useless pecies of clothen! Do you we need them? In winter? AYE! AYE WE DAE!! but can I really remortgage ma hoose tae pay for a pair, oh wait two because skiing and climbing gloves are totally different! And yes I know people might read and think, 'dude just get this gloves you can feel sooo much through them'. That's true, but not if yer circulation is as shite as mine.

So I did it. I went against every fiber of ma scint climber bones, and handed over the green (well it was a credit card). I bought a pair of Black Diamond Guides and, yes bloody expensive and, a pair of Black Diamond Specialist.

I have always spent the very little on gloves, why, cause I didn't have the money (not even plastic form), and I knew, all be it from what climbers told me from the beginning, that they will fall apart in a season or two. Now watch this space. Cause if ma hand get cold....I mean white, god dam that's going tae turn black and drop off cold. Your going tae hear aboot it, and if I drop ma in tire rack this season cause they're clumsily biffa gloves that wont cut it either.

Apart from that the climbing in the gorms are still oot, but the skiing is definatley in!

Stay safe.

Busy Busy Busy Bee

So.....where tae being.....? I've managed, with a hangover (not recomended) tae finish the STS. I've then managed, sober, tae get all my climbing and skiing gear up tae my new hoose in Aviemore.

So jobs, digs the dam car oot, and get it tae the garage, unpack my gear and sort in tae normal manic manner! But with no car, training for the world cup has resorted tae walking tae tesco's and filling a bag full of heavy food item's, and playing in the snow with the lass.

Tomorrow, up on the hill for a ski tour as climbing in well and truly oot.

Sweaty Betty!

So I've been in Edinburgh noo for aboot couple of weeks, and already I feel fat and useless! So a sesh at Alien Rock 1 was spontaneously plan this morning for after work.

So Martin and myself physic oor self's up, and talked aboot the 'pump' that oor untrained, frail bodies were going tae have tae take.

Alien Rock isn't a bad venue, I thought that grades were a wee bit soft, but the biggest problem was the heat! Never in my nelly puff have I climbed in such heat. I wasn't getting that pumped, it was more the slippy sliding of my hands.

We endured aboot 2 hoors of the heat before heiding hame for some scran and a pint.

I'm looking forward tae Extreme Dream opening for the winter! Let the training being!!!!! I'll be back up in the 'More' at the end of October.

Climb safe!

Fun Weekend

On Tuesday my good friend Chris Gingles (that's his real last name!) finished his Doctor exams, therefore, no more studying!
So this weekend we were going tae have some fun. On Saturday Chris, his wife Racheal (The Gingles) and I went tae Rothiemuchus tae the clay pigeon shooting range. Dispite not holding a gun since I as 17, I think I held my own! Competition was hot as it was doon tae the last few clay tae decide the winner....turned oot it was Chris by two clays! Good job Gingles.

After 50 rounds we went tae the mountain cafe tae plan oor climbing day on Sunday. It was decided (as Chris and Racheal were both novices) tae climb fingers ridge and descend Ficael ridge.

After a large coffee and a brownie I was buzzing. For someone who doesn't drink caffeine, and doesn't process sugar well, you could say that both of my eye's were twitching!

We then decided tae bike up High Burnside (the woods at the back of Aviemore) tae burn off, what I can only imagine the same as a very large hit of smack!

It did the trick, I went home after and crashed.

Sunday, Fingers ridge was taken! Bugger....The Genie? VS? not Diff, I'm sure they will be fine...will I leading in trainers, no chalk, and with Chris that learned how tae belay 60 seconds before the route? Oh well, lets see!

The climb went well, all three were cursing until I got tae the hard pitch, and it started tae rain, shit. No prizes for air miles as most might know from me, and with that, and all my 'aid climbing isn't climbing' rants, it made sense then. Lots of sense!

We all topped oot not long after and was sitting on top in the sun with sandwiches and smiles all round. It was then time tae retire for a well earned burger and a dram!

Fun weekend? one of the best! Photo's will follow at later date.

Where's my mojo?!

Don't worry I'm not dead. I've been shite with my blog but that's it. I have seemed tae have slipped into a funk, with training anyway. I just can't seemed tae get motivated tae train. Not indoors anyway. I've been going tae the gym tae keep my fitness up, but I feel like I'm missing something with it, well I know what it is, it's the feeling of movement on the rock.

Since my last post, I've done other things with my life than climbing, my relationships have changed, I've sold my van and replaced it with a motorbike, and moved house twice. Slight mid life crisis? Maybe?

Does this shitty weather help? No? Is that a good excuse? No, not really? But I'll use it all the same! People tae get motivated with? Now that would make a big difference. It's funny, certain times of the year or places you go, you either have not enough people tae climb with or too many, or not enough money tae get aroond and the weather is shit.

I know one thing that has put a stop tae blogging, even if it useless crap that even the unemployed wont want tae read, is that I lost my bloody camera months ago, and I've never got roond tae replacing.

The mission is on! The right cheap camera will be found. Training will resume, the weather will change, but that winter coming through. The motorbike will be locked away and a small cheap car will be bought (much saving is needed). I'm moving again, now tae the birth place, the home in my heart, Edinburgh! Where the wine flows like beer, and the snow falls like rain! I will return tae Aviemore, just in time for the next big winter, I feel it in my waters, this one is going tae be a beast.

For yous that read this, and keep checking my blog, thanks and I will not let you down! Pictures and funny story's are on the horizon!

Till next time, happy climbing, and be safe.

Weem

Will this weather ever let up!!!!!!!!! Seems not unless you drive doon tae Weem rock (just south of Pitlochry) I was there with a lad from 'Nightwatch' at the lodge. After climbing and trying tae train at the lodge, I thought that there was a good chance for some good ascents. But no, I was climbing like a donkey and as weak as ever. I did think that the route at Weem were harder than the grade giving....or thats my excuse.
However it was a good day on the rock with nice weather, and it didn't take long before we were driving back intae the rain that seems tae be just hanging over Aviemore!
I was going tae jump intea the wall at the lodge tae finsh myself off, but the minute I tried tae climbing on any problem, I couldn't be arsed.
Weem has really kicked my ass, and that can only be a good thing tae get motivated tae climb and train more. When it's not fun, is when it's time tae go hame! (excluding Scottish winter routes!)

Grand Scottish Weather!

So after my problem on the Link boulder, I was looking forward tae some nice cold crisp spring bouldering when I got back from london. Only a came back with shorts, t-shirt, and flip flops on, and drove right intae highland weather, crap highland.

I was planning on bringing you some of Aviemore's best kept and known secerts of bouldering. Some that are right in front of yer face and some aren't so much. But as for the weather it's slightly delayed.

So I'll keep sitting in cafe's and training indoor until my fingers or soul is broken! Waiting with baited breathe for the good weather tae shine through.

Happy training!

Bouldering around Aviemore

So the last couple of weeks I have had a real calling tae go bouldering. So I got the mat oot the garage and went tae the hardware store tae get a new brush.

It wasn't long before I realised that there is enough bouldering around the Aviemore area, and even the odd new line tae be had. There is a lot that hasn't been recorded.

So over the next couple of days I will be bringing you the best bouldering spot from around the area and some new spots that I'm sure no one has taken a pair of shoe's tae.

I have manage to put a new line on the Link boulder near Cairngorm Mountain, it's the sit start to 'Right hand Lip' 6c. The sit start was there for the taken and after a good look through the guide book, it was not part of the problem. I think it's V7ish, It's a solid V6 anyway.

So in the next couple of days, weather permitting, I'll try and get tae ye what I think the best bouldering in Aviemore.

Scrape the wax off!

Well bugger me! Let me just sort oot ma kit. Bike: put you back in the garage. Bouldering mat: Eh? yip, back in the garage too. Woolie beanie, gloves, snow shovel, boots, and skis: back in the van!

What the hell happen then? Spring? My arse! More like winter is back with anger, not just heavy snow fall again, but with a decent wind as well!

So I'm snowed in again. Twice this year and I'll try and drive oot tonight too see if this snow carry's on whether I'll be snowed in tomorrow as well!

I recently (two weeks ago) went to a local crag for some cleaning up, possibly some pre bouldering training could be had.

There as a slight problem with the landing of a couple of lines, so I sent tae the 'in the way rock' with the van jack and some rope. Two and a half hours later, Mark Council showed up (he was late because he was making bread. But after he took off his make-up and put doon his pinnie he came over with some more pulling power) Eventually we flipped the rock over and started to get rid of any crappy rock.

Done. A nice little clear up, felt good aboot helping oot the local crag and waited for it tae dry tae have a proper sesh.

But wait...

Well I think I will just have tae wait a little longer. At least Cassie was enjoying herself!

A Day Oot at the Wolf Tracks

So some time last week I got Namoi (mountain bike) oot for a spin tae work one morning. Shorts, sunglasses, yes this was going tae be cool. Apart from her 'lock-out' on the forks not working she never skipped a beat.

The following day I met up with big G (Graeme Morrison) and went tae Lagan for a ride. As usual the drizzle was only at the Wolf Tracks, but we saddled up anyway.

As the weather was not the best we vowed tae dae the red, in full, and then leg back tae the comfort of a brew and a sofa!

Spirits were high and the riding was better than we expected.

There are lots of great wee features at the Wolf Tracks, such as 'Chess Board' (a 40m long rock stair case), 'Aires Rock' (an entertaining rock slab), a North Shore section (a wooden ride-way),and loads more.

Spring was well in force, mountain biking had already kicked off, and soon tae be bouldering with amazing friction sunning skies. I've already put the ski's tae bed as I've had an awesome season on them, and it was time for catching up on my winter climbing for last bit of the season.

But there was something in the wind? A cold snap maybe? If so, it would be good for the friction of my bouldering/sport projects....but...wait....is that rain?

Climbing, and work.

Well the last few days has been filled with work. However I did manage tae relese myself from the clutches of the under paid dead end career grip of the shop by climbing at Extreme Dream. Although Extreme Dream has more than half in size, with a bit of imagination it can still be a great place tae train, meet up with friends, and throw chalk balls at the heids of the unexpected (Mark).

Climbing at the wall can be good training. They (whoever 'They' are?) say that 86% of climbers can improve their climbing by looking doon mare. Why? cause when you look doon, you see yer feet and what their not doing.

However climbing with no feet at all means that, yer feet aren't making mistakes cause they'er not in the equation!

The arms say 'trying hard', but Idon't know the face is saying!

4000's

Now, I'm not a big skier. I'm not a good skier. So with that, the 'three monkeys' set off for the four thousands.

As usual the lanky monkey (me) struggled up the first leg. I was trying my hardest to, kick, flick, slide, step...all the way up, technique is everything. Sure I was left in the wake off Neil and Mark (maybe I'll chatch up)with their powerful hill running legs cranking the skies up the hill. But I got there....eventually.

I'm more off a slower, easier pace skier/walker/runner...you get the picture?, I' m more of, check oot the view, get the good photo (well try) and get there when I can.

Soon enough we were having a wee snack and a drink before having a slide doon the other side of the first top.

Across and along tae Ben Macdui, with the view given you pure snow with the occasional turn cut doon the distance slopes from previous skiers bagging their ambitions in the back ground slopes. Most of the views far away didn't look real, sounds strange but they looked more like photo's.

From Ben Macdui the skiing was nothing more than brilliant. Like children in a candy shop, we look tae the slope that traversed and then dropping doon the untouched snow below and played as much as well could before the gradient slopes leveled.

At the bottom of the Ghru more snacks and drink before the slog of all slogs.

A well deserved rest at the top befor the next amazing slide doon, and then traverse to the homeward bound straight (straight-ish)

Homeward bound. The traverse to Brareich was awesome, the views again where beautiful. Not to sound too pathetic, but when I get a day like that, or a view so blue and intense with brilliant white on home land mountain's I ache. It's what, I think, all this is worth doing. Weather we die and we're dead, or there something else. I don't care. I've done what I need tae dae, I know that I'll keep doing this, and that's enough. So, then and now, and while I can still remember, I'll be happy, and intend tae keep keep it that way.

Fun raising

Sun 20th Feb:

Katie is running the marathon in London this April. She's running the marathon for the British Heart Foundation, and with that has to raise £3000. So Katie organised a day in Ski Hire at Caringorm Mountain, they were dressed up as the village people. So what could I dae? Dressing up as one of the village people on one of my days off after working 9 straight days? I don't think so, however my plan which involved Neil Foote ( a regular at longreachclimbing) wasn't exactly cool. Neil was in a two piece pink number (at least 4 sizes too small!) topped with an Afro and aviators! and I was in a red one piece with a rainbow stripped hat topped with a bobble.......what a bloody mess. However at the end on the day we raised over £700 and Neil and I skied doon the head wall (suppose tae be an end of season job).

I'll try and get some photo's for you guys a.s.a.p

What again?!

Wednesday 17th Feb

Angus: fancy another morning? There's some good snow up from the Ciste car park.

Me: Sounds like a plan! i think Neil is going tae come ( see previous Ben Wyis shanagins)

So I reverse Dora (my ex AA van) doon the drive way. Its -11.5 and its feels it. The van makes a funny noise as i loose sight on the road BRAKES. I stop but I'm not level. I try tae drive oot....nae chance. Shit. I get oot and Dora, some how, not my fault (maybe it was) got herself stuck on the banking.

Neil rocks up. Perfect, tie Dora tae Neils motor and we're free! Neil follows Dora and myself to the Ciste car park 20 min late tae find Angus still in his van with heaters on!

Me:'Sorry I'm late big yin' and we quickly get the gear taegether.

Me: ' SHITE!!' I've realised that I've left my liners warm next that the Aga in the kitchen.

So i had tae drive back doon tae the house, back up the drive carefully, and tan it back uptae the Ciste.

Me:'sorry lads' Its safe tae say that i got a bit of stick for that mistake.'

But then we were off, and the rewards were worth it, the morning was better than the day before!

I don't do morning!!!....or do I?

Angus: 'Lets go touring'
Me: 'After work? I'm up for that.' as I looked oot the window and see snow falling as it has done all day!

Tuesday 16th Feb. Snow was for casted for the Wednesday, but hey! its here now. Standing in the shop trying tae shoo the last of the customers oot so I can get me gear taegether for Angus' skin up the mountain.

Me: 'you coming Rob?'
Rob: 'Eh eh, aye, eh ok, aye. What now?'
Me: 'Yeah, its tipping it doon!'
Rob: 'Cool, lets do it'
Me: 'Right lets meet at the snow gates in 45min'

42min and 38 seconds late, phone rings

Me: 'Angus? whats up?'
Angus: It fucked! the gates are close, and i think that people are struggling tae get doon the mountain!'
Me: 'Shite.'

Me: 'Rob? its fucked.'
Rob: 'Shite.'
Me:'Aye.'
Angus:' We could always go up tomorrow morning? Lets say, at the snow gates for 06:00?'
Me: 'Eh.....ok.....shite.'

But getting up in the mornings isn't that bad when your going tae be the first person tae slide doon a slope where no one has been since the fresh snow has fell. Morning aren't that bad.

So myself, Danny (www.mountainplan.com), Angus, and Rob (mountain spirit) met at the snow gates and skinned all the way tae the summit of Cairngorm. Blue bird morning with an awesome sunrise that turned the hill orange. The more the sun popped oot, the more the hills begged you tae get skinning over tae them tae go play.

Unfortunately work was at 09:00, so we hunkered doon the hill tae the top car park, traversed level tae the link boulder, and ski doon through the trees in the powder back tae the vans.

Not a bad way tae start the day!

Ben Wyvis Touring......ice?!

Preparation was done. It maybe took 12 years to make. Time and effort, with the skill of a train tongue to make the decision to pour clean brown intae the bottle. Cork. And Label.

I'll tell you this, it didn't take 12 years to enjoy it, not even 12 hours.

And with that we were set for the night and ready. Ready to take on Ben Wyvis in the morning. On skis. with dogs. And with the blue sky's and sun that the stunning weather lassy told us on the news that night.

The three monkeys (Neil, Mark and myself) set off. We parked up and unpack ski's, dog's and hip flask (remainder of the bottle), and started the walk-in.

The beautiful weather lassy was right. And the walk-in was good (apart from the blister developing on my heels. Shite).

We got tae the big boulder before setting up. When it came apparent that there was, despite the photo, an extreme lack of snow. Ice however, there was plenty of that!

So the three determined monkeys set off with stubborn determination to skin up this bitch....but...as usual...the bitch won. And it wasn't long before the ski's where in hand and all three of us were kicking steps with the same stubborn determination as before. It was funny how we didn't really think aboot how tae get doon! Tae the expert skier this wouldn't be a problem. But we're not experts. We're pish!

The traverse began intae the first main bowl. Icy at the start, with some ice at the middle and at the end of the traverse was snow! a whole inch of snow.....on ice.

We could see a gully at the bottom and it looked like it had some more snow, maybe 2 inches of the freshest power ever seen!

The start of the gully seemed tricky for Neil.

But soon enough the three monkeys were sliding doon the gully with grace and agility

After a day like that. The three monkeys were dog tired!

Neil was just shocked that it was over!

Danny, Andy, Hannah and Cassie heading back for a brew.

Down time with Cassie after a run (for her) doon Lerchers gully.

Andy coming doon the backof Cairngorm.

Climbing or Touring

So went to go climbing on Thursday. Yes roond 2 of the Chancer.....but......Andy's shoulder was giving him hassle, and had done for the past week.

Now a lot of people may be slightly miffed if they were in my predicament. But there is snow on the hill and we've got ski and skins. How could we complain? There was skiing tae be had!!

Failed on the 'Chancer'

The lads preparing for the skin up. But with our charm we blagged some tickets!

The Chancer. Hells Lum. 'V,6' ice climbing.

I woke up on Wed 6th already mentally preparing myself. What do I need? Got tools, screws, harness, ropes, food..........ski's?

'Aye, lets tour intae Hells Lums, do the climb, and ski oot!' I said to Mark Council and Andy Sutton (Andy drove up from Leeds the night before, got in at 02:00. Keen!)

So we sorted our gear, problem being was Andy didn't have any ski's. However I do have a pair of Rossignol blades with a tour binding on them.

'There you go Andy, sorted!' He didn't seem so keen.

We got up to the top car park, the sun was up, and the snow was definatley there. 4-5 inches of fresh snow fell last night.

I looked at the strong climbing team, Mark practicing his apline butterfly while doing one armers on the van door (strong door), Andy was sharpening his tools and racking the gear on his harness with OCD precision.

'Dae ye want tae f****this off and of skiing lads?' They both looked at each other.

'Aye!'

Writing or Pictures?..........good times